Inside a new $1.2 billion hotel in London where Churchill won the war

In a city that’s almost 2,000 years old, you can expect to see repurposed, recycled and repurposed buildings, and buzzy new hotels are at the forefront of them.

Ned, in the Bank’s financial district, used to be (you guessed it) a bank; The former offices now boast 10 restaurants, including fine dining and entertainment in the lobby (think cruise ship.)

Manhattan’s NoMad post office in Covent Garden with its central atrium room was once a magistrate’s court, with grim holding cells housing Oscar Wilde and the suffragettes.

Perhaps the most ambitious rebuild, however, is Raffles London at OWO (which stands for Old War Office, its name initialized because, well, nobody wants “war” in its name.)

If you want history in your hotel, you have it here. Edward I first rose to prominence in the 13th century, followed by various monarchs including Henry VIII, who died here.

But its greatest claim to fame is as the Headquarters of the British Army during the turbulent years of 1906 until its deactivation in 1964.

As the nerve center of the Second World War, the presence of Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill is practically palpable within the vast, hallowed halls and castellated walls.

After the army servants left, the free war office took “Old” in its name and immediately prospered, falling badly short. The Hinduja Group got a 250-year lease in 2016 after parting with $460 million.

Two years later, legendary Singapore brand Raffles stepped in as a hotel operator.

The architects, EPR, had to meticulously preserve the Grade II listed trapezoidal structure while creating a spacious luxury hotel and 85 private residences. The renovation was extensive, but it came with some joys, such as discovering previously unknown mosaic floors under dusty carpets. Renovation costs are estimated to be around $1.2 billion.

Thierry Despont was brought in to oversee the interior design. “Our objective was to preserve and enhance the DNA of the Old War Office Building while creating a 21st century luxury palace hotel,” he said.

Objective achieved. Opening in September 2023, the 120 bedrooms and suites echo their past in grand fashion. Arrival is in style – step into the cobbled courtyard or walk through the main entrance to be greeted by a grand sweeping staircase. (Its two-story George IV chandelier was made by British custom lighting specialists Dernier & Hamlyn, who used old photos from the building to recreate the glow.)

Upstairs, five heritage suites, once the domain of leading politicians and military men, offer neoclassical apartments with rich wood paneling, antique fireplaces and lavish bathrooms. A stay in the Lord Haldane Suite, Churchill’s office during World War II, will satisfy your statesman dreams with tall windows and red velvet sofas. Go to the top of the double Turret suite for views over Whitehall, including stoically mounted horse guards from the Household Cavalry stationed across the street.

Eight spacious corner suites offer spacious accommodations and are named after notable women who worked here, including Christian Lamb who plotted the D-Day landings. Now a 104-year-old, she finally saw the beaches of Normandy for the first time in this year’s commemoration of the 80th anniversary of D-Day, where French President Emmanuel Macron awarded her the Legion d’Honneur.

While the heritage may be old, the fixtures aren’t – softly dimmed lights, blackout curtains and multiple TVs are operated by your iPad, as is the quick butler service – although in-room time may be second to none. after relaxing in the large basement pool. Some 80 feet were excavated to accommodate it, along with the soothing Guerlain bathroom that spans four floors.

The food is also top-notch, thanks to three restaurants under the direction of three Michelin-starred Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco. Colagreco aims to bring “British terroir to the table with humility and passion” according to the blurb. Of course, the cuisine is delicious – fresh, tasty and all locally sourced British produce that reflects the seasonality.

And if, by now, you’re looking for a classy cocktail to fulfill your James Bond fantasies, you’re in luck. Bond creator Ian Fleming worked here as “Churchill’s Spymaster” and MI5 and MI6 were both based in the building, accessed through an inconspicuous door still known as the spy entrance. As a major character in the Bond genre, the OWO building has also had its own close-ups in films over the years, from 1983’s Octopussy to 2015’s Spectre.

You can enjoy a drink in the leather seats of the comfortable Horse Guards bar and lounge, including the hotel’s London Sling (Sipsmith Raffles 1915 gin, strawberry and oat, sipello, linden tea and cherry), but you can have more fun in the Bar secret of underground spies. With contact by appointment, you’ll be escorted to underground rooms once used by MI5 (we’re told the number above the secret door, 007, is completely random, but surely not?)

The decor has big Bond nods – not the least of which is the Aston Martin tucked behind the bar – and is quite dark and retro. Cocktails are innovative and varied, although you can’t go wrong with the classic Vesper martini.

And no photos allowed. This OWO treatment is for your eyes only.

Rates start at $1,179 per night.